Trail Master Lift
The main prob with the bilstiens is that they make a 26in exted length for the rear and a 30in. They don't make a 28in ext. At least last time I checked. which is more likely what you need. If I were you, I'd measure from shock mounts and see what you come up with. The 26in worked fine with my 4in Superlift but didn't work when I added a 1 3/4 in spacer back there
I think 4" shorter shocks is about what I need. They are completely compressed right now.
Oh, if you only have 3in in the rear, you'll be fine with the bilstein for 3in. Flexed fine. I did have the rears squished down abit from all the weight I carry.
Last edited by mkjeep; Jun 21, 2010 at 03:57 AM.
I pretty much torqued all the bigger nuts and bolts. (shocks and up). The smaller stuff I just guessed at. I have a habit of over-tightening everything and torquing everything actually keeps me from bending brackets.
I got the lift installed, new 35" KM2's and Superchips as well. I'm not gonna lie, it was a PITA!! Mostly because this was the first time I had worked on the Jeep suspension. I still need to adjust the control arms. Not really sure what I'm doing there but I'll figure it out tomorrow. Anyways here's a few pics, I'll get a bunch more up this weekend.

Stock Rubi compared to the Trail Master and 35's...

Stock Rubi compared to the Trail Master and 35's...
Looks great Paul. It may have been some work, but you'll find that the results are more than worth it.
I had a chance to take mine out on some trails this past weekend and the ride and performance was much better than when I had my 2.5" coils. But be prepared for a lot of squeaking for the first hour or so of the ride. I didn't have any squeaks when driving on the highway, but the first time I really worked those flex joints, there was some squeaking until the grease got worked through the joints. After an hour or so, the squeaking was pretty much gone.
I was going to get some articulation pics, but it started raining a couple hours into the ride and the only picture I got of any Trail Master lift was Wilky going up a rock slab.
I had a chance to take mine out on some trails this past weekend and the ride and performance was much better than when I had my 2.5" coils. But be prepared for a lot of squeaking for the first hour or so of the ride. I didn't have any squeaks when driving on the highway, but the first time I really worked those flex joints, there was some squeaking until the grease got worked through the joints. After an hour or so, the squeaking was pretty much gone.
I was going to get some articulation pics, but it started raining a couple hours into the ride and the only picture I got of any Trail Master lift was Wilky going up a rock slab.
So I noticed that my rear end is sitting about an inch to the right. (the right wheel sticks out an inch further than the left) Anybody know what would cause this? The rear track bar being too long? Would the control arms push the entire rear end if they weren't adjusted properly (which they aren't yet)?
So I noticed that my rear end is sitting about an inch to the right. (the right wheel sticks out an inch further than the left) Anybody know what would cause this? The rear track bar being too long? Would the control arms push the entire rear end if they weren't adjusted properly (which they aren't yet)?
Yea I installed the track bar and new bracket. It is the factory track bar, I guess I need to look at an adjustable one. That sucks.
Im glad to hear you guys are happy with the lift. I cant wait to get everything figured out and get it off the road.
Im glad to hear you guys are happy with the lift. I cant wait to get everything figured out and get it off the road.
Can't imagine how the axle got off that far, but here's a couple more things to check.
Make sure the top of the rear coils are still on the rubber isolator and the isolator is still in place in the recessed area of the tub. When I put my coils in, one of the coils slipped out of position when I was jacking the axle back up to attach the shocks. I didn't notice it until after everything was together and the jeep was back on the ground. But that was easy enough to fix. I put the jeep back on stands, took the tires off and dropped the axle down as far as it would go with the shocks still attached. The coil was still under tension, not so much that I couldn't shove the coil back in place.
If you haven't corrected the pinion angle yet, this may also help. During the initial install, my pinion was too high which caused the springs to bow out. In addition to bowing out, the springs were also leaning a little. This could be where you are picking up the one inch offset. Once I corrected the pinion and attached the track bar, the bow was pretty much gone.
The pinion angle should be either the same degree as the drive shaft or slightly below it. But no more than two degrees below. If the springs are still bowed, wedges may be needed. You can do a search and find that a lot of people are having bowed spring issues and correcting them with either wedges or new perches.
Make sure the top of the rear coils are still on the rubber isolator and the isolator is still in place in the recessed area of the tub. When I put my coils in, one of the coils slipped out of position when I was jacking the axle back up to attach the shocks. I didn't notice it until after everything was together and the jeep was back on the ground. But that was easy enough to fix. I put the jeep back on stands, took the tires off and dropped the axle down as far as it would go with the shocks still attached. The coil was still under tension, not so much that I couldn't shove the coil back in place.
If you haven't corrected the pinion angle yet, this may also help. During the initial install, my pinion was too high which caused the springs to bow out. In addition to bowing out, the springs were also leaning a little. This could be where you are picking up the one inch offset. Once I corrected the pinion and attached the track bar, the bow was pretty much gone.
The pinion angle should be either the same degree as the drive shaft or slightly below it. But no more than two degrees below. If the springs are still bowed, wedges may be needed. You can do a search and find that a lot of people are having bowed spring issues and correcting them with either wedges or new perches.
Last edited by Denny2565; Jun 25, 2010 at 03:32 PM.


