You could always start with a boat trailer...they run about $3-500 on craigslist in the east side of So Dak....they bigger ones haul a 16-18 foot boat plus fuel and fishing gear...if you have the resources to cut and chop it down to a reasonable size it may do the trick for a starting point.....

 

I've asked around a bit on that question too and from what I've heard, you will definitely notice some power loss w/stock Rubi gearing on 35s. It really just depends how much you're willing to accept. To maintain a stock feel, its recommended to update gearing to 4.56 with 35s (with the 3.6).

Regarding the lockers, stock will be fine unless you're doing something REALLY intense which 90% don't ever do...

I hope this helps.

 

I'm sure I will do ok. I have a spacer lift. But I also have a very nice hill on the side of my driveway that I can park that allows me to almost sit underneath it.
It's not exactly a factory harness. I still have to splice into the brake switch wire according to the video. Funny thing is my wife's 2014 came with a trailer brake kit connection. I'm not sure if it would fit my 2011 yet, she's not willing to give it up yet lol.

I'll post pics of the install and try and do a write up because i haven't seen one on here yet about it.

 

Odds are no, most trailer axles have a bearing hub too large to let Jeep wheels fit, I used a wheel spacer to get mine to fit. Also which Jeep do you have? A JK uses 5 x 5 bolt pattern and unless you go with a 3500lbs axle, most trailer axles are 4.5 x 5 or smaller.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/m.../index101.html

http://tventuring.com/trailerforum/thread-64.html

 

I was saying don't upgrade just for lockers. Upgrade for the superior motor and transmission. If you keep your older rig, ARBs are better since you can lock up in any mode, not just 4wd low, as well as front and rear separately. There are many situations where I've found this lockup freedom useful. 4:10 and 35s with the new transmission is fine. I'd bet by the time you are done, you'd be better off dollar wise with a 2014 Rubi vs. a fully built 2010 sport, especially when you consider you get little resale value on mods.

 

[SUP][/SUP]Measure where your wheels will sit, including back spacing. Call abctrailerparts, they will quickly build whatever you want for cheap. Make sure u order with correct bolt pattern. Are u adding e-brakes? Now is the time to decide. With stockers, you may indeed need spacers for the hubs to clear, but u can also drill out wheel centers for clearance (if you don't mind seeing the grease caps) or do with modified flat caps.

 

if you get the axle you need, it should be ordered by hub face to hub face, so if you are going to use spacer, you need to add that measurement in. Personally, I would get spacers, have them lathe or cut to fit the hub, that way should you need a wheel down the road, any similar Jeep wheel would fit. I did that and my wheels are 7 AEV Pintels (5 JK, 2 Trailer) I found used and a 5 spoke JK wheel for the spare.
You could have them add the face/bracket for brakes and decided later if you are going to have e-brakes or not. At this time I am not putting brakes on my trailer, but my goal is to keep my total weight around 1000-1400lbs or less.

 

Here is the write up on the MOPAR 7 pin trailer connector I installed today. Put a Tekonsha P3 brake controller too. I just have to switch the connector to the bottom connector on the tail light instead of the top, so the left side lights work, just ran out of time. It really went better than I expected. I put the controller below the turn signal stalk, it's close, but has enough clearance to make it convenient and not in the way too.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...nector-302810/

 

Here is my Jeep during a 10 day trip from SoCal to Moab, with a few fun places in between...






Here is my buddy's Jeep from the same trip. His is a little more traditional "exp"






And here's just a random pic that I thought was worth editing a bit...

 

Everything working great! Hooked the Mopar harness to the bottom connector on the tail light and left and right sides work perfect.

Here is the brake controller I put it. A Tekonsha P3. Fits well and is the best on the market with a digital accelerometer instead of a pendulum. Got it installed in a great place where it isn't in the way, I can see it and I can activate the manual brakes if need be.