After I did the relocated I measure the distance between the canister and the Diff. Then measured the distance between the axel and the bump stop..In my case it looked likely that the diff would hit the canister so I moved it back to the stock location..For Now. I also was not happy with the way the E-brake cables rubbed on the canister..

I think if you modified the stock Canister bracket...By hammering it flat then drilling new mounting holes the canister would be far enough from the diff to clear under full compression..Right now I'm leaning toward the Ditech relocate kit....It just looks cleaner to me....and the E-brake cables are clear..

If you have a suspension or body lift I'm sure you'd be good to go.

For you guys wondering about issues with the heat gun..I put mine on the low setting..I Took the hoses off of the Jeep before I heated and then modified the bend..Just be carefull..You could melt thru these hoses..But then again 5/8 fuel line will do the trick much better than the stiff plastic hoses anyway..

 

Just need to remove the ebrake bracket and that fixes the problem. I did it after someone on page one recommended it. Ebrake works great and no cables hang down either FWIW.

 

fantastic wright-up! leaves plenty of room for custom dual exhaust!

has anybody had any issues with diff rub?

 

I have the TF2.5BB and have flexed my jeep as far as it will go and no problems. The aftermarket bumpstops are longer with the TF. Anyone at factory height that can chime in?

 

Dumb questions, but what are people using to drill the holes, and can I reuse the bolts that are on the evap.

 

I used a Dewalt cordless drill...I marked the holes first with a pencil..I used an 1/8 bit first to drill pilot holes from under the jeep. ( almost killed a cat there) Then I drilled my holes from the top with a bit that matched the size bolts that I used.

You could use the stock bolts. You would just need to find the correct nuts ( nylocks) and washers to match. (Bettter Yet get some stainless hardware) Once you get this all done. I would use silicone or some type of sealant to make sure everything is water tight. I used the 35 year acrylic sealant with silicone..Great stuff..

 

I'm going to make a new bracket...If you've seen some of the other relocate kits they include a bracket that raises the stock bracket just few inches..Once that is done the E-brake cables should clear no problem.

Also once the stock canister bracket is flattened out and new holes drilled it tucks in really nice and flat. It also increases the clearance between the canister and the diff..For guys like me with no lift this was a concern.

Your write up was great and really got my wheels spinning..Thanks

 

Hey guys,

My kit does basically the same but with complete instructions no hammer and full warranty. If anybody has any error codes, warranty or smog inspection issue in any way, I've got your back.

I've sold over 500 kits and it's a well proven system.

Something has me worried though NEVER use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften those hoses.

If you're interested in this kit, you'll most likely also be interested in getting your steering stabilizer out of the way. I offer a bundle - steering stabilizer and evap relocation kits for $80 plus 15 shipping.

Here's a LINK

 

I agree with this 110%, dont skimp on this mod, do it right or you'll be hating life. This is a good deal for what you get

 

Don't "skimp" on this mod or you'll be hating life? What? Whats to skimp on if you read my origional post/mod? I didn't use a heat gun or hammer. Those were things other people did that they thought might be helpful. My mod was free and didn't/hasn't popped any codes nor will it.

If it was a compressed air heat gun there is no problem using one.