Side-mount Jerry Can Carriers for the JK
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,556
Likes: 37
From: Elmira, NY
The neoprene sheet does do a good job of preventing movement of the can, so make sure you've got that in the tray as well - I haven't heard of any issues with the supplied hardware or can movement/noise issues from anyone else, and in the many miles I've run with mine I've had no issues with can movement or noise.
JK Junkie
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,318
Likes: 12
From: New Hampshire
no me either mines so far seems secure
The bolts that hold the tray to the mount are 5/16-18. A flathead screw like you pictured would not be a good choice - a better choice would be a truss head screw, they have a very low profile head that tightens against a flat surface, so if you were going to replace the bolts that come with the kit with anything you might want to try truss head.
The neoprene sheet does do a good job of preventing movement of the can, so make sure you've got that in the tray as well - I haven't heard of any issues with the supplied hardware or can movement/noise issues from anyone else, and in the many miles I've run with mine I've had no issues with can movement or noise.
The neoprene sheet does do a good job of preventing movement of the can, so make sure you've got that in the tray as well - I haven't heard of any issues with the supplied hardware or can movement/noise issues from anyone else, and in the many miles I've run with mine I've had no issues with can movement or noise.
some gorrila ttape on can would temp, it in the mean time while lookin for truss head 5 /16 x 1 x 18s thanks im not anal over it if theres scratch but dont want it to wear or rust out so better safe than sorry
Phillips Truss Head Machine Screw 18-8 SS - 5/16"-18 x 1" Qty-1
$0.53 so about $1.00 @hardware store stainless steel
Last edited by jeepmojo; Mar 7, 2016 at 08:36 PM.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 468
Likes: 4
From: Austin, TX
Flush bolt heads like this would probably fix it! I'm still thinking of just adding a second pair of bump stops near the bottom so the can isn't able to move at all.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 468
Likes: 4
From: Austin, TX
The neoprene sheet does do a good job of preventing movement of the can, so make sure you've got that in the tray as well - I haven't heard of any issues with the supplied hardware or can movement/noise issues from anyone else, and in the many miles I've run with mine I've had no issues with can movement or noise.
Former Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,573
Likes: 2
From: USA
Get away from the metal cans, go Scepter military spec cans, and be done with it. No rattles, no paint to chip, no metal to rust out, and the construction is bomb proof. You can run over them and the seams still won't break. That's because they're seamless! Might actually work as a "cushion" when you bang up against trees on the trail.
Get the cap wrench for it to tighten it down and the regular walk-by thief won't have a chance getting the cap off to steal/siphon off your go juice.
Glad I bought mine 4-5 years ago because the prices today on flea-bay have definitely gotten up there....
.
Get the cap wrench for it to tighten it down and the regular walk-by thief won't have a chance getting the cap off to steal/siphon off your go juice.
Glad I bought mine 4-5 years ago because the prices today on flea-bay have definitely gotten up there....
.
Last edited by DJ1; Mar 9, 2016 at 12:16 PM.
JK Junkie
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,318
Likes: 12
From: New Hampshire
i checked mine yesterday very close
The foam works for most daily driving.. but on the very bumpy washboard trails in Big Bend it wasn't enough. The can is able to shift at its base and bump the bolts.
Flush bolt heads like this would probably fix it! I'm still thinking of just adding a second pair of bump stops near the bottom so the can isn't able to move at all.
Flush bolt heads like this would probably fix it! I'm still thinking of just adding a second pair of bump stops near the bottom so the can isn't able to move at all.
but bupstops on upper prevent a contact So i can see this issue of vibration or movement of jerry Can being a problem tooat bottom of can in the future. I
think the replacement bolt is the answer for me on this over adding more gizmos to bumpstop , but again will have to be stainless steel bolts replacements & will be additional expense to the consumer. Not a big issue @this point but as you mention a (tweak) that is required to prevent rubbing most likely
Thanks for the forewarning its just these comments that can prevent the future repair work on the buyers behalf.
on the scepter can , resolving the matter, im not so sure the same issue couldnt cause chaffing to the plastic and result in gas leak over time if there was any movement or vibration as mentioned by( Erok) & I personally dont care for the looks of the scepter cans, for mine, but they may be stronger im not sure . my wavian cans are stout . & have to agree out of control on price for a gas can these days.
DJ1 have you received your holders yet? you might want to just buy flat head bolts a head of time rather than having to do it later. 5/16x 1"-18 stainless steel
Last edited by jeepmojo; Mar 9, 2016 at 09:31 AM.
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,556
Likes: 37
From: Elmira, NY
Former Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,573
Likes: 2
From: USA
on the scepter can , resolving the matter, im not so sure the same issue couldnt cause chaffing to the plastic and result in gas leak over time if there was any movement or vibration as mentioned by( Erok) & I personally dont care for the looks of the scepter cans, for mine, but they may be stronger im not sure . my wavian cans are stout . & have to agree out of control on price for a gas can these days.
DJ1 have you received your holders yet? you might want to just buy flat head bolts a head of time rather than having to do it later. 5/16x 1"-18 stainless steel
Don't get me wrong, the old-school cans are nice but I can't see them holding up under tests like these:
http://expeditionportal.com/equipmen...cepter_can.php
...and this is just the Scepter water jug!
Scepter was founded in 1949, and developed “Scepterene” a resin that is impervious to gasoline and began making fuel cans in the sixties. In the mid 80’s, Scepter designed a three handled polyethylene fuel can derived from the original 20 Liter"Jerry-Can" designed by the German army during WWII for use in the blitzkrieg of Europe. This can proved itself to be a vast improvement over the previous metal cans. These new cans were tested, and were quickly accepted as the new fuel can standard for Canadian Military Forces converting previous requirements from metal to plastic cans. In the 1990s, the US Military, also tested and adopted the Scepter fuel can as their new standard.
In military live fire tests, these fuel cans were shown to melt and burn without exploding, making them significantly safer than their metal counterparts. They exceed United Nations Transportation of Dangerous Goods Model Regulations. Scepter's MFC cans are built to exacting U.S. Military specifications (MIL-spec). Rugged in design, Scepter’s MFC’s are built using high molecular weight, high density polyethylene featuring seamless all-plastic construction.
In military live fire tests, these fuel cans were shown to melt and burn without exploding, making them significantly safer than their metal counterparts. They exceed United Nations Transportation of Dangerous Goods Model Regulations. Scepter's MFC cans are built to exacting U.S. Military specifications (MIL-spec). Rugged in design, Scepter’s MFC’s are built using high molecular weight, high density polyethylene featuring seamless all-plastic construction.
.