Will the flashpaq work for 2010 models since engine is the same?

 

I have to ask, are you running 87 or better octane? I tried the 87 and was running 85. Didn't notice much difference until I actually had enough 87 in the tank.

 

According to a post by Scott on another forum:

"Here is an update everyone.

The TPMS option just released was the first step and was created to cover those registered, street-legal vehicles that will be used on public roads requiring them to stay within the federal regulations. The law clearly states that companies may not create devices that defeat TPMS on registered vehicles.

We are in the process of finishing up our “off-road / race only” option to this program now that will allow users to set TPMS on/off and adjust to 0 psi for off-road use which will open the door for use of aftermarket rims and tires that do not offer TPMS sensors. This feature should allow off-road/race users the ability to modify the TPMS settings to prevent warning lamp illumination during off-road or race maneuvers. Again, this feature will be for off-road use only and would require a ‘waiver’ to download.

This option should be ready to go in a few days. It will include a disclaimer that those who use this function will acknowledge that it is solely for off-road purposes.

Bottom line – if you drive your vehicle on public roads and have a license plate, use the Flashpaq to adjust your pressures per the FMVSS135/TREAD legislation. If you race or trailer your off-road vehicle, an on/off setting should be available in a few days.

I will post back once I have confirmation that this option is online.

Scott"


This is certainly good news, I would have no problem with the waiver, of course, and it will be good to eliminate that pesky light on the dash.

As of tonight there was no "waiver" when I updated the Flashpaq but I'll check for it tomorrow.
I for one love the adjustability of the TPMS feature, and certainly value the warning you can get from the system about a deflating tire, but running the Hutchinson Rock Monster rims I do not have a TPMS option. I'm not even sure banding the sensors to the rubber belt that forms th bead retention system of these rims would be a good idea.

 

Thats good to hear, I'm really close to just ordering and trying it. I too have a 6-speed and would like it to drive like a real 6speed. Actually have some throttle response and such.

 

Sorry but you bought a Jeep, not a tow vehicle. No magic wand but a Hemi is going to cure your concern. Every vehicle has a tow rating, doesn't mean its quite intended to haul much....efficiently.. <key word.

 

I towed my 18' Bayrunner and it towed great..........hardly knew it was back there. Your bass boat may be heavier than mine, I don't know, but I seemed to have plenty of power. Left the OD on for most of the trip (only about 23 miles), and only took it off for one big hill. Other than that it seemed great. I haven't checked the mpg while towing it yet so can't help ya there. Btw.....I did not have the SC set in the towing tune....just the plane jane 87. Also only ran it at 55-60mph.

 

Still no response on what the weight of your boat and trailer is, but I'll guess it to be somewhere between 2500 and 3500lbs. What that means is you are going to need between 20 and 30hp additional hp to keep it moving. A Flashpaq itself is not going to get you there by itself, and you really need to twist the motor at about 20% more rpm. What that means is a set of 5.13 gears and 5.38s if you plan on larger tires in the future.

It's reasonable to believe a Flashpaq will get you half the way to where you need to be, it's just not going to be able to make up all the power you need which is better served by increasing rpms. The better than 40% jump in rpm from OD on to OD off sounds like overkill and the 20% jump in rpms that 5.13s would bring better fit the bill. Then add a Flashpaq with the tow setting for better roll out and some better efficiency with fuel.

 

Since the day I got my SC, I have been running the 91 tune and using 93 octane here in NC. Both driving around town and on the interstate, my auto down-shifts on the hills far less frequently that w/o the SC.

I recently drove to Kiawah Island in SC (about 320 miles, one way). While not classical towing, I did have a Yakama 5-bike bike rack loaded up with 5 large bikes. I don't know what it weighs, but it is not light. With the windows down and doing between 68-78 mph (sometimes up to 80 mph) on the interstate, I usually get around 21.5 on the computer. By adding the bikes on the trip I noticed two things. With the bikes on; my computer mileage dropped to around 19.5 mpg and running cruise or using my foot, I now had to drop a gear and let the rpm's climb to get up the larger interstate hills. And that is what really dropped my mileage average. When I would hit flatter sections of interstate, like once I got into the low country, then my mileage would start climbing again. I still had more than adequate power to get up the hills and was never "gear searching" in the auto, rather it would just downshift, stay there, get to the top, and then go back to hi gear. I never use my O/D button, but instead let my tranny "think" about what gear it wants to be in. See my sig below, I'm basically stock except for engine and exhaust mods.

I hope this helps.

 

There are so many variables to consider when towing / extra loads. I agree, with the previous post, that with 2500-3500 load, the SC is not going to do it. However, there is more to it than just the boat to compare. I noticed the comparing parties - one was driving a 4 door, the other a 2 door. Which makes me wonder if the 4 door is a 2wd or 4wd. Anyways, with so many drivetrain options from the factory, I really don't think it we can do a fair comparison. Although, I think we can all admit that the SC won't turn a JK into a sports car. That is what a HEMI is for.

With that being said, I bought one. I need to recalibrate my speedo for my larger tires. Anything else I get from the SC will be a bonus. I figure if I go in with low expectations, and get more, then great. I would love to get my 18-20MPG back that I got when stock, but I wish I could win the lottery too! Maybe then I can do the HEMI swap.

I'll get off the soap box . .

 

I ordered my SC Flashpaq last night from Bruised (Chad) at 4 Wheel Hardware......$300 shipped!

Here is what I want out of the Flashpaq - 3 things - - 1) More consistent power throughout the power band, 2) Better overall fuel efficiency, and 3) To help my auto tranny and 3.73 gears to stop hunting for gears at over 60 -65 mph.

Heres my background - - I have an unlifted Sahara that overall drove wheel and performed well on the stock 18"wheels and stock 32" Bridgestone tires. I changed to a 15" Pro Comp and 33" Duratrack (which measures 32.25" actual) and I now have some gear searching during my interstate commute to work where I didn't before. The new wheels and tires actually weigh less than the stockers and the tire diameter only rose by .25", so I was a little surprised this happened. After thinking it through, here is what I have concluded - - while the new wheels/tires weigh less than stock, the stock wheel and tires had more of their overall mass closer to the axle hub, while the new tires/wheels have more of their mass closer to the outside diameter of the tire. So, in effect, I have more rotational mass, and need more power to turn the wheels at the same speed.....thus the gear hunting.

There may also so be some slight variation in the speedo reading with the .25" tire diameter increase, but it can't be much at all.

So, not looking for a miracle or Hemi outta the Flashpaq, just an adjustment for the new tire diameter, more consistent power band, and hopefully back to my stock efficiency and shift points......but better would be awesome!

We'll see what happens and I will report back.